Archive for the ‘Baja California’ Category

Crystal Symphony 2010 Loreto

January 5, 2011

I stayed on the ship.

Years ago my wife and I vacationed in Loreto. Some paved streets, more not, and very few tourists. The beach was great, hotel good, and food perfect. One thing that comes close to standing out in my mind was the airline didn’t make advance seat reservations. If there were more passengers than seats, well tomorrow’s another day. The practice was to hire someone to wait in line for you on the day of the flight. I don’t remember the cost of this, but it was cheaper than another night at the hotel. So why didn’t I go ashore? I didn’t want to replace the fond memory of Loreto for the two newly married with whatever is now “up to date”.

Staying aboard Symphony is certainly not a chore. The botoxed Bistro is a favorite place of many to grab coffees, teas, and goodies.

The bar has been circularized (I can’t believe that’s a word”.

Ubiquitously on display are Christmas reminders. The computer center,

the cheese,

and even the ginger bowl.

This place must be scary around Halloween.

Each night Teodor brings canapés at around 4:45 PM.

Then it’s to dinner at 6:15. I love the dining room’s “first plates” that reflect the food scene of the night.

This was French night.

Actually, I wasn’t very hungry and I found by not eating, my table attracted all kinds of men in tuxedos asking about the food, did I want something else, etc. None could accept “I’m not very hungry.” (This is a cruise ship, idiot, everyone’s ready to eat all the time.)

In the evening, the Crystal Society members were invited to cocktails and dancing in the Starlight Club. The Crystal Society is Crystal’s guest loyalty program. Some of the people at this party have cruised Crystal since the Harmony first went to sea years ago. One even longer than that.

The production show yet again was hugely entertaining. The audience, in formal wear, was a bit reserved, applauding, but absolutely no vocalizing except, you guessed it, from me. Some of the dance numbers combined acrobatics; splits, cartwheels, leaps and in air somersaults; all performed with poise and style. So yes, I shouted out. YES!

Tomorrow Mazatlan.

(For the best in cruise news go to www.avidcruiser.com)


Crystal Symphony 2010 La Paz

January 3, 2011

Mea culpa, lo siento, my bad. Michael of Cruiseholidays.com straightened me out about Crystal and the Mexican Riviera. How I got confused about the coming Symphony schedule, I have no idea. When Crystal execs told me this was their final Mex Riv cruise, I thought they meant FINAL, not final until next time. I do know that Crystal is excited about the upcoming Pacific Coast cruises, but excitement aside, Symphony, contrary to what I thought, will be heading to the Mexican Riviera once again:

3/31/2011, 10 days Round-trip Los Angeles

11/27/2011, 7 days Round-trip Los Angeles

12/11/2011, 10 days Round-trip Los Angeles

Thanks Michael for your info.

We are in La Paz, “Baja’s Hot Spot”. Who knew?

With 250,000 people, this is Baja’s second largest city. La Paz used to be known as the “City of Pearls”. Unfortunately, all the oysters are long gone.

But first things first. Into each life some detergent will fall and it was laundry time for me. It is really neat to have a free place to do washable clothes.

But, be sure and read the directions on the washers and dryers as they don’t work as you might expect. Well, don’t pay too close attention.

La Paz, although on the ocean, depends on this port which is about a 30 minute drive to the city.

We were serenaded on the way to the free shuttle.

As you drive to La Paz, be sure to sit on the right side of the bus. That’s where you’ll see most of the interesting surroundings.

This area is booming, or trying to boom. Gary Player designed a golf course featured as part of a condo complex.

Lowest price, $750,000 USD.

There are availabilities. A bit further on is a non-completed building with one condo as a model home. On a hill above it all, new million dollar plus homes. There are availabilities.

The city itself is, well a city.

As I was walking, an armed soldier standing in the back of an unmarked pickup truck passed by.

I have no idea what his assignment was. Maybe he was being disciplined.

Just a thought as I walked the shopping area.

If T-shirts suddenly disappeared, hundreds of stores all over the world would be empty.

The center of the Malecon or beach “walk” features a tall Christmas tree,

but none I’ve seen so far can compare with the Symphony tree.

The walk itself goes for miles in each direction and is great for walking or bike riding. Along the way are the most attractive trash barrels anywhere.

For me, no matter what’s on shore, there is nothing nicer than getting back to the boat. (OK, it’s ship, but I liked the alliteration.)

The night was full. Early in the evening a cocktail party in the Captain’s quarters which got me in the perfect mood for dinner in Prego.

We had a table for 5, excellent service and superb food. There is no extra charge for this alternate restaurant, but Crystal suggests a gratuity of $7.00 per person. How they came up with $7.00 I have no clue, but I can imagine the “tip” meeting at the long table.

“How about $5.00?”

“I say $7.00.”

“Let’s meet in the middle at $6.00.”

“I say $7.00 and I’m the CEO!!!!!”

“$7.00 it is, let’s go to lunch.”

From dinner to the show. The production was based on Route 66. Great! Brett Bullock , the head of entertainment for Crystal Cruises, has done it again. In all the years of cruising, this is only the third time I’ve looked forward to the next show. I think we should all send Brett $7.00.

Tomorrow Topolobampo.

Crystal Symphony 2010

January 1, 2011

This is the last time Crystal will visit the Mexican Riviera, at least for the foreseeable future. Last, but not least, as this is a 10 day cruise and includes ports in the Sea of Cortez.

Fifteen years ago, my wife, Michael, and I sailed on Symphony’s inaugural out of New York to Los Angeles. I remember walking onto the ship and seeing the rain of water next to the sculpture. That is about the only setting that I still recognize.

This ship has changed quite a bit since 1995 (as have I), and the “new” Symphony is stunning. More about specific changes will come later.

My wife and I have made the trip to the LA Cruiseport numerous times. For some reason this time I put the place name in our navigation system. Did I put Cruiseport? No. Did I put Port of Los Angeles? Yes. OMG!!!

I won’t go into the near dissolve of my marriage, but I kept telling Michael to “go left, go right, NO!! I said right”. You get the picture. We ended in a strange area, no ship in sight, lots of oil tanks, and a building. The Port of Los Angeles. Nice office.

From that point it was a nightmare. We kept trying to get back to the freeway, navigation system be damned. Not good, the city of something was having a parade, and each turn we took, after a few blocks, had floats, police, barriers, etc. Do you know how hard it is to hear marching band music with your wife screaming?

At last the ship. Although I had left home in plenty of time, the long trip ate that up. I was the last to board. Once on Symphony, the stress faded. I’m on Penthouse Deck in a lovely and spacious stateroom.

Bags arrived quickly, and I unpacked. Oops, somehow I totally forgot to bring a razor and shaving lotion. Forgetting the razor was a $15 mistake. If this happens to you, I suggest buying in port rather than on board.

Cologne was a different issue. Faced with a penny candy smell shelf,

I went by label alone. I have a bit of a sinus problem and am aroma impaired. God knows what the result of a squirt of Joop is, but it looks cool on the bathroom shelf.

My butler, Teodor, introduced himself. He’s from the UK and has an accent that completely eludes translation. And he speaks rapidly! It’s like watching a foreign movie without subtitles. He asked me something, and without a clue as to what he said, I um-hummed yes. Ten minutes later a bottle of vodka appeared.

Dinner was sushi. Nobu is a famous sushi creator and oversees preparations. I heartily recommend the “house special”.

Be careful of the wasabi. It has twice the zing of any I’ve had ashore.

The TV has “cable” channels, so Sunday night football closed the curtain for me. A note about the TV; its flat screen faces directly forward

and thus is difficult to see from the bed. Pull it straight out, do some twisting,

and line of sight is from pillow to screen.

Tomorrow a look at the ship, but let me leave you with this. President Obama has the Bush tax problem. Enough already!

Bye bye Mexican Pie

June 15, 2010

by Geoff Edwards

Did you know that years ago, “Have a nice day” and the smiley were generated out of a California advertising agency? Almost as ubiquitous is “Mexican Riviera”. I have no idea where that tag came from, but it set up the whole area of Cabo, Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlan, and Ensenada. They are visited by thousands of cruisers every year, but change is in the wind.

Royal Caribbean’s 3,114-passenger, Los Angeles-based Mariner, the largest cruise ship operating Mexican Riviera itineraries, will move to the Mediterranean beginning in January. It’s the third cruise line to give up on the in the last seven months.

Norwegian Cruise Line announced in March that the 2,240-passenger Norwegian Star would move to Tampa in October 2011, and Carnival’s Elation

has already moved to Mobile and is happy in the Caribbean.

How bad can it get? Well, badder. Princess says that when potential passengers see “Mexican Riviera” on the visit list, they look for other itineraries. Seeing the empty cabin future, pretty soon Princess’s Panama Canal trips will completely bypass Mexico.

Count on an extra day at sea.

This is bad news for Mexican merchants, but good news to shoppers; the fewer the buyers the easier the bargaining.

Cabo will take a huge hit.

Will all cruises to Mexico cease? We’ll see, but if you want to be sure you get to the Riviera ports, do it in style. Crystal’s Symphony is making three 7 day round trips from Los Angeles to Cabo, Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta. The first goes November 21. and everyone on shore will be happy to see you!!

Train, Boat, Five Days in Cabo (not) Day 4

September 2, 2009

Close to 3,500 people live in Catalina

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with one barber shop, one theater, and as far as I could tell, one Vons.

This population swells to around 15,000 in the summer.

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Never mind all the cruise passengers that stroll around three times a week.

I realized, as many times as I had been to Catalina for a buffalo burger, I had never been downtown. It was easy to see how one would want to live in this small, but bustling town atmosphere.

You have your beach,

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your boats,

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your stores,

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and tons of restaurants specializing in seafood; Mexican; burgers; and whatever else will fill your plate. Eric’s on the pier was one of the few that cooked buffalo burgers.

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In all honesty, recalling all the “burgers” I’ve downed; tofu, beef, veggie, and even tuna,

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this was the worst I’d swallowed.

And I swallowed it with difficulty. There is a sign that says “Please keep Avalon clean, don’t feed the birds”. No problem here, nary a bird would touch a crumb from my plate. Maybe because the “crumb” was half the food there. To put it in popular vernacular, it didn’t meet my expectations, it blew them up.

Dinner helped erase the memory meat, and was again excellent. The chef makes very tasty soup, and I found a lovely Chardonnay to balance my meal. It’s Australian named “Promised Land”. I hope I can find in what is left of Canyon Country. What wine pairs with falling ash?

The night burst out with the blues band of Bobby Whavers from New Orleans.

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A seven piece juggernaut of jumping blues that had the intimate Romeo and Juliette room rocking. I’m sure we moved the ship, and some, not in the room, thought the sea had come up. Anytime you get the chance to see Bobby Whavers take it. I’ll be heading to Itunes when I get home.

Ensenada tomorrow.

Train, Boat, Five Days in Cabo (not) Day 3

September 2, 2009

Another day at sea, and we are slowly making our way towards Catalina. Although I am sad we are missing Cabo San Lucas, now that the satellite photos are posted, most understand that Cabo would not have been much fun.

DSC02144Some years ago I flew my Cessna 172 to Catalina’s awkward airstrip just to eat the great buffalo burgers at the airport café. They were as juicy and flavorful as any burger I had ever tasted; worth the trip for sure.

As far as the “awkward” airport, the approach was towards a cliff front that had an updraft. The strip itself had a hump in the middle, so upon touching down (or taking off) it looked a great deal shorter than it was. Misjudgment, going or coming, had built up visible wreckage just off the actual end of the runway.

So for me Catalina will be my buffalo burger stop, but for now, what to do? I have to admit I was seduced by the Spa pitch “Time for Men”. A 55 minute facial, plus double close shave, and face, scalp, and hand massage for $95 pulled me in. particularly as I had a 4 day growth of beard, that while it looked hip, guaranteed my moneys worth.

My “shavette”, Aneeqah, was from Cape Town, South Africa, and queen of the hot towels.

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During the process, all tension slipped away, except the constant fear of falling asleep and snoring.

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At dinner, neither Natalie nor David

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noticed my beard had disappeared. It reminded me of a French movie where a man had a bushy black mustache. He agonized for some time, then shaved it off. He was consumed with what people would think. No one, including his wife and his coworkers, noticed. This drove him to the point of suicide. As I am not French, I am not suicidal, but it does bring up the point that ones ego pays more attention to self than actual people do. Perhaps some part of visualization is habitual. Is there a lesson to be learned here? I hope not.

Talking about visualization, the Elation Atrium has two glass elevators that travel from Empress deck to the Sports deck, some 5 floors. The view from these elevators is charming. After all, that’s what glass elevators are about. I have upped and downed these transparent boxes several times a day, and no one looks out. As in commonplace lifts, all face toward the doors and the floor indicators. Finally I told some kids to turn around.

“Wow, look at that.”

This is a casual ship. There are dress codes for dinner, but they are very relaxed. Even so, some can’t rise to the low standards. “Casual” allows jeans, dress shorts, collared shirts. Not allowed; sleeveless shirts for men. Still and all, I did not confront the guy in the wife beater T-shirt with the tattoos.

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Nor did anyone else.

Men are asked to wear a shirt in the Lido at lunch. Uh huh.

DSC02096Sushi from 5 to 8:15 PM is free and wear whatever.

The pool is the main gathering spot. I like statistics, and will share this one with you. 60% of women wearing bikini swim suits, should not. But, the other 40% more than make up for it.

DSC02117The slide is always busy, and what goes up, must come down.

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Once again dinner was excellent. The Chef understands veggie dishes and since I have had my fill of chicken in any manner, and don’t eat red meat, (buffalo burgers don’t count), I find my eyes sliding down the menu to the Vegetarian section.

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The service is prompt and friendly. As a matter of fact, all the crew is friendly, smiling, and “how are you today” flys around the decks.

Other things also fly. In California at the outdoor cafes we have tiny starlings grabbing at crumbs. But Carnival does things in a big way.

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I wanted to go to the show. Because of our change in plans, the show nights are back to back. Apparently, we all wanted to go. An hour before curtain the theater was filling up.

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I loved the previous presentation, but, even though seating is arranged for waiting, (booth type chairs and tables; lots of waiters with trays of drinks), I didn’t want to hang around waiting for this one to happen.

To the cabin and a laugh at Larry King asking a woman who had come from the grocery store, got into her car, and been jacked by a man who made her drive to a deserted area. He then put handcuffs on her.

Larry’s question? “What happened to the food?”

At the main bar is a sign that says, “Anecdotes are 17% funnier with a drink.”

For me, when it comes to Larry, this doesn’t work.

Catalina tomorrow.

Train, Boat, Five Days in Cabo (not) 2

September 1, 2009

This morning I called my wife, Michael, to ask about the fires raging and approaching our area. At the moment, all is cool, well, at 100 degrees perhaps the word should be normal. I let her know I was excited abut the possibility of some high waves in the Cabo San Lucas area because of hurricane Jimena. I’ve got this weird thing about big ships and no motion. I want to feel like I’m at sea, not at home.

Elation is a big ship, almost three football fields long with a normal capacity of 2,052 passengers. We have 2,556 on board. How does that work? Well, our total capacity is 2,606 using couches, pull down berths, the floor, an open lifeboat….So guess how many children we have on board. When I asked a crew member working on the excellent kid’s programs, she said she wasn’t sure, but it is the most she’s seen on a cruise.

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The children are running all over the ship with painted faces, funny hats. Their parents are relaxed and out of this particular loop. Grandparents seem a bit more concerned, but then aren’t they always?

What struck me as slightly out of whack was the Little League Championships being watched by adults only. Little Leaguers on this boat were far too busy.

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I went to the art auction billed as “The Most Exciting Event of Your Cruise”, and “your chance to fill that empty space on your wall at home.” It was called a rare inventory clearance. Depends, I guess, on what rare is, although I can guarantee they had quite an inventory. I saw the same art I’ve seen on ships for years. My wall’s empty space never looked so good.

A Park West woman stopped me from taking photos; actually standing there making me delete my shots as she watched. Luckily, I am delete impaired, and while it looked like I had succeeded, obviously I had not.

DSC02130Looks like no waves in Cabo. Captain Garuccio just announced that we are turning around. It looks like Jimena will not comfortably interact with Elation.

We’re out of here.

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We are now heading to Catalina, and then Ensenada. Tomorrow we’ll be lolling at sea and saving a lot of fuel.

There are some unhappy people aboard who don’t have any interest in the coming ports. There are groups here and there discussing getting their money back, or at least doing something.

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Lines formed quickly at the main desk.

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One woman canceled her gratuities getting at least $50 per person off her account.

This is not the fault of Carnival, and all passengers were presented with contract terms before buying a ticket. Very few ever read them. I did feel particularly sorry for the man who lives in Catalina. At least he’ll know a good restaurant in town. I’m guessing that tonight Cruise Director Steve will not be asking if everyone is happy.

So what to do now? Well, there’s Bingo.

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I usually avoid cruise ship shows. Actually I do go, but sit in the back so I can escape quickly and unnoticed. The show was at 8:45 PM. By 8:30 the Mikado was full. I saw one seat open…..in the front row. Oh well. Not to worry, this was one of the best shows I’ve seen. The choreography was not the usual frantic arms and legs and head snaps, seemingly put together by a meth addict, but dancing that made sense. The performers lip synched to voices recorded in Los Angeles. It was weird in the front row to have some of them come down next to me moving their mouths with no sound coming out.

The two stars had the mics and the voices. Julie Hughes was outstanding. Staging was captivating, but didn’t overshadow. As the curtain closed on the bows, they got a standing ovation. Unfortunately, as I looked back from my perch, I was the only one standing and ovating.

Train, Boat, Five Days in Cabo (not)

August 31, 2009

I’ve been wanting to try one of Carnival’s short cruises to the Mexican Riviera, and so jumped at the chance to do the Elation from San Diego. It’s a five day cruise, and since my last cruise to Mexico had all the ports canceled because of the flu, two days in Cabo San Lucas would be the karma I deserve.

Good news, the MetroLink stops about 5 miles from my house. From there to Union Station in Los Angeles, then Amtrak to about 50 yards from Elation in San Diego.

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The bag was a slight problem. Not only big, but it determined my seat. The conductor told me to keep an eye on it. (more…)

Cabo San Lucas

January 7, 2008

The entry to Cabo is always lovely. First we passed the long strand of empty beach slowly being turned into resort playgroundsp1010717.JPG with Flipper and friends as guides.p1010713.JPG Next the left hand turn past Los Arcos,p1010735.JPG

 Lovers Beach, p1010737.JPG

 

and then to anchor off the port area

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filled with boats, ranging from not much more than a row boat to huge yachts.

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There was no wait for the tender, and we headed in. 

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Years ago, when we first came here there were dirt streets. Now multi million dollar condos provide a backdrop as you walk from the tender dock to town, and upscale shops are developing in the port area itself.

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 Soon there will be no need, unless you are short a serape, to go to town at all.

 

It’s a lovely walk, made more interesting as we watched two mimes standing completely motionless.img_2806.JPG

 We watched for a bit, saw not a palpitation and I dropped a dollar in their coffee can. They immediately broke pose and shook my hand.img_2804.JPG

 

 It took a while to get the silver off.

 

Our first stop, as always, was Senor Greenberg’s Mexicatessen. It was gone! It is now Cabo Coffee.img_2811.JPG

Swallowing that disappointment, I had another quest. We always bring Listerine with us, and somewhere at home on the floor of the closet, just outside the “this is what we’re packing” circle, are three bottles of green. So my job was to find a Pharmacy.

 

Michael’s job, if she accepted it was to look for earrings. She accepted it.

 

Being Sunday, and with only one ship in port, the town was almost empty. I tried a few Farmacias and learned that the sign “Abierto” meant open — or closed. Just beyond a flea market with no fleas,img_2813.JPG

 I saw a Pharmacy with the door open. No tricky signs here.

 

I went in and found four small bottles of Listerine, $4.40 each. The solitary clerk in his late twenties asked if I had cash. I did, but to get to my pocket, I had to untie my camera from my wrist. Putting the camera down, we finished the transaction and I was off to find Michael.

 

Since I am never sure where she told me she’d be, and so many of the jewelry stores, the sun reflecting off the cheap silver in the windows, look alike, I called her on my cell. 13 numbers dialed, hums and buzzes as the signal went from the cobblestone street up Baja to Santa Clarita, California and back again to Michael’s phone….eight feet away. She had just come out of the store next to me.

 

Suddenly, as she handed me the bag with a pair of new Crocs she had bought, I realized my camera was still at the pharmacy, about 50 yards away. I dashed back, did not see my camera on the counter and asked the clerk if he had it.

 

“What camera?” he said. “I didn’t see a camera.”

 

“Yes, you did’” I said. “It was right next to your register.”

 

“Oh,” he said, “a man came in and got it.”

 

“I don’t believe that”, I said.

 

“He said his wife left it.”

 

“She didn’t.” I said. “How long ago was that?”

 

“About 30 minutes ago.”

 

“I was here less than 10 minutes ago.” I said. “What you are telling me did not happen,”

 

“I don’t know.” he shrugged, and actually pulled his laptop out of my reach.

 

I went out and reported this to Michael who drifted into the jewelry store adjacent to the pharmacy.

 

In front of the pharmacy was a bench. When I get really angry, my face can become kind of scary. My friends used to call it “the ray”. I sat and stared furiously at the clerk. He soon came out.

 

“Is it really your camera,” he said.

 

“Yes!” I growled.

 

He led me inside and handed me the camera. But first, he made me identify at least one of the images on the screen. I showed him this one.

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So he, in his mind had proved that he was not a thief, but just protecting the camera until the “real” owner showed up. I thought he came really close to being a thief.

 

A word about buying drugs in Mexico. It is illegal to buy drugs in Mexico without a prescription from a Mexican Dr. Most pharmacies pay no attention to this, even though there is always a Doctor’s office nearby. This law is only enforced if the Federales get bored, and would rather have you use your Vicodin money to bail yourself out. By the way, Vicodin is $20 a pill.

 

Heading back to the ship we passed a stand set up with a lion cub in a small cage. For some pesos (to be donated to an animal charity), they would take your picture holding the cub against an African backdrop. Michael thought about getting a photo for the grandkids, but I was not pausing. Even though I had my camera, my rage was slow in subsiding.

 

We rounded the last turn in the walk to the tender, and there it was, Senor Greenberg’s.img_2815.JPG

 It was a lot different inside, but the Christmas tree with the bagels was still there.img_2818.JPG

 It’s one of the few places in town that you can get milkshakes, smoothies and FREE Internet. Nachos and a Pacifica took care of the lingering anger.

 

As we left, Michael spotted a Crystal Cruises ID card, without which you can’t get on the ship, on the ground, All ID cards have the owner’s photo and name. This belonged to a woman from Miami. Picked up, we kept the card out and Michael scanned faces. When we got to the first Security gate, a woman and two men were being escorted to the tender dock by a Security Officer. It was her. (ok,ok,”she”)

One of the men she was with had a great photo holding the lion cub. And a claw gash in his arm.

 

We were tired!img_2810.JPG

 

It was nice to see the ship waiting, and knowing a nap was only ten floors away.

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Heading to Baja

January 6, 2008

As promised the sun was up, the sky blue with a few clouds. Temperature was still in the mid 60′s, but lovely.

 

We had what some people (Michael) would describe as a perfect day at sea. Sleep until 10 AM, have breakfast delivered by Goran, p1010706.JPG

nosh a bit after 1 PM, take some photos, look at jewelry, take a nap, read, and skip the Captain’s Party. The image of all these people in Tuxedos rubbing elbows, a bit too Penguiny for me.

 

Obviously, it was Formal Night. On many cruises we skip Formal Night, preferring to eat en suite, but not on Symphony. Actually, on this ship it should be renamed Caviar Night.

 

We weren’t disappointed. The caviar was presented on top of a sort of mousse of both white and yolk of egg, onion and something, all, accompanied by the necessary tiny pancakes. Absolutely delicious. Want another, just ask.

 

Dinner was Lobster, Chateaubriand, or both. I had quail and rare Chateaubriand. I normally don’t eat red meat, but with the caviar and quail going down there, I figured my stomach would be too busy to question the red stuff.

 

As we walked by other tables, no matter what was disappearing from the plates, we constantly heard, “This is the best I’ve ever had!”

 

On the way out of the dining room I saw something that was upsetting. My sense is to report this rule breaking crewmember; Michael says let it go. But, the health of the ship is at stake. The Maitre D’ was SHAKING ENDS — WITH EVERYBODY!!!!!

 

Clocks were set an hour ahead last night so, faking jet lag, we headed to the cabin. We both read, wondered who would win in New Hampshire, and fell asleep with visions of attack ads twirling through the night.

 

Tomorrow Cabo.


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